
We're not talking about my style here, more so, my pain. Friday I could not find a thing to bitch about with the conditions, so I thought I would find something else to complain about.
The waves were just overhead and nearly perfect and they were rights. It seems like I go left far more often than I go right. Judging from pictures and videos I would say Sunset-esque. I could be way off on that, but that's what I imagined. Pretty powerful, but not necessarily hollow. After flying down the line towards the rocks a good dozen times I though I would try an off-the-top, and off the top I went. I fell backwards with a lot of force half way into a back flip I caught my head in the water and torqued my neck back. It felt like my eyes were going to pop and I saw a few stars, but I felt alright soon enough. I paddled back out and got some more.
It wasn't till that night till I felt like my head was going to roll off the back of my neck. I've been doing the robot ever since.
No comments:
Post a Comment