I am writing to you after a 36-hour search for something that could be called a wave. After nearly 200 miles of driving I found something close. Close enough, that is. After all was said and done, it was worth it, and I would do it again. I drove through a lot of rain and wind and spent some money on the way, but the end result made it worth it--this time. It doesn't always work out that way, and that makes one real bitter. How I deal with that bitterness is what this blog is all about.
I am just like most Oregon surfers. I have been at it for about five years. I am not actually dedicated enough to live on the Oregon coast. I probably think I know more and surf better than I actually do. I read about how a quad should ride compared with a bonzer but have never ridden a bonzer. I am more into surf culture than I would be if I could actually surf everyday. I am another dime-a-dozen, quintessential Oregon surfer. Oh yeah, I write a blog about it too!
On the other hand, I like thrusters more than anything else. I don't own a longboard. I am from the Midwest. Lastly, I am actually planning on moving farther away from the coast, and I am alright with that because I can bitch about it more.
*Don't expect regular updates, epic surf reports, or much worthwhile in any context.
*Do expect lots of negativity, things other than surfing because there isn't enough of that to go around, and some drunken posts.
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