It's not What.T.F. It's Why. T. F.

I went surfing the other day and it reminded me that this is winter and this is Oregon surfing. I put on a damp, cold wetsuit and second guessed the idea of a solo paddle out in a large, cold, and powerful swell. Once I was out in the water, the current picked me up and dragged me to where I wanted to be. Then, I was about a hundred yards to the north of where I wanted to be. After twenty minutes of paddling I was back where I should have been, and I caught a nice over head wave and kicked out before I thought I would be too far gone. I was too far gone. I Paddled another twenty minutes meeting "Finger", the easy-going, all-is-good kind of guy you need to run into in this type of outting, we managed to drift past the take-off zone and we each caught another. We pretended to have a nice discussion through our hoods about the last waves we caught, but we couldn't hear anything through our hoods. We nodded and caught a few more.

The image is from some notes I took last November. November can get spooky mate.